Boulangerie guide
from a french
[not very objetive]
Bakeries are a big deal in France. When we travel, bread is the first thing we miss and the first thing we eat when we return. Sure, many countries have amazing bakeries, but there’s something special about tasting the bread from home.
Bakeries are open all day, typically from 7am to 8pm, and only close one day a week. Early in the morning, you’ll see joggers, workers, and people heading home after a night out. I’ve only been one of these people—I’ll let you guess which one.
dialogue
Let’s imagine a scenario: You want to buy some bread (une tradition, my favorite) and a dessert (un éclair au chocolat, a classic).
Enter the bakery 🚶♀️
You: Bonjour! 👋 (or say Bonsoir if it is like after 6pm)
Seller: Bonjour!
You: Je vais prendre [insert the name of what you want].
Seller: Avec ceci? OR Ce sera tout?
You: [insert name of what you want] s’il vous plaît.
Seller: Ca fera 2 euros 80.
You pay, very important, do not forget. Card or cash are ok, there might be a minimum to pay with a card, depending on the boulangerie.
You: Merci! Bonne journée / Bonne soirée !
Leave the bakery
Eat the end of your bread (this works for any long loaf, not the round ones, that would give the impression you’re really hungry), and cut it with your hand, please don’t bite directly.
Cut!
Honestly, just don’t forget to be polite, and don’t hesitate to point at the counter directly to show what you want, and you’ll be fine! The French aren’t as mean as the cliché goes. 🤗
bread
Let’s take a look at bread! It’s not just a cliché: bread is very important to the French and always has its place on the table, no matter what dish it accompanies. Some people like to buy it for breakfast, others prefer to get it in the evening on their way home from work. Some even buy it twice a day. There are no strict rules, but the fresher the bread, the better. Depending on the bakery, bread is baked several times a day. If it’s fresh from the oven, you’ve struck gold! Fresh, warm bread is the best.
If you like, you can specify whether you want it not too cooked (pas trop cuite) or well-cooked (bien cuite), if there is a choice. If you’re only buying for yourself, you can ask for half a long loaf (une demi-baguette, for example).
List of Bread to know
Long Bread 🥖 Baguette et Tradition
The best-known is “la baguette” (fun fact: the French also use this word to mean chopsticks). It’s a classic choice, and the French genuinely eat it, so it’s not just a cliché. Enjoy it with butter, jam, Nutella, or on its own!
I believe ” la tradition” (or “tradi”) is the best long loaf. The crust is crispier and the crumb denser and more buttery. Like the baguette, it can be enjoyed with various dishes, as a sweet snack, as a sandwich, or even as a hot dog bun.
Round Bread 🫓 Bucheron et Pain de Campagne
Pain bucheron is my favorite round loaf. It’s energetic, dense and delicious. It’s made with two types of flour. It’s excellent with cheese or for sandwiches. In general, it’s best eaten with salty rather than sweet foods, but the real sin would be not to enjoy it, so do what you like.
Pain de campagne is quite similar. However, it’s lighter, less dense and less rich. So it’s a great basic bread!
Soft Bread🍞 Pain de Mie, Viennoise, Brioche et Fougasse
Pain de mie: Soft and light, it’s perfect for a snack! Eating a good pain de mie is like eating a cloud! In supermarkets, pains de mie have a different appearance, being much bigger than those in bakeries. Obviously, it is better in bakeries.
Viennoises (plain) are soft, baguette-shaped breads, perfect for breakfast and sweet dishes, but also, of course, for savory dishes. Viennoises are also very popular with chocolate chips, which I recommend!
Brioche: Very classic, it’s usually eaten with sweet foods. It’s airy and light, making it the best bread for French toast (called “pain perdu” in French, meaning “lost bread” because it was originally made with stale bread that would otherwise be wasted).
Fougasse is a savory bread, perfect for an aperitif. It’s very similar to focaccia and originates from the south of France. This bread is really soft, moist, and rich, made with olive oil and toppings such as olives or ham. There’s also a sweet fougasse, which has a taste of orange blossom and a layer of granulated sugar on top. It’s absolutely incredible and a must-try if you see it, though it can be very difficult to find outside the south of France.
Pastries & viennoiseries
I want to tell you to try everything, but that wouldn’t be much of a guide. First of all, what are pâtisseries 🍰 and viennoiseries 🥐? In general, pâtisseries are more elaborate and subtle, typically enjoyed as desserts, while viennoiseries are “simpler” and often preferred for breakfast and snacks.
Here’s a non-exhaustive list of the best ones, according to me, a Frenchwoman:
Les éclairs au chocolat: This is a choux pastry filled with a generous chocolate cream and covered with a thin chocolate glaze. There’s also a coffee version, and probably other flavors, but the chocolate one is the most famous and the best, in my opinion.
Chocolate Religieuse: The principle is the same as that of the chocolate éclair, but the only difference lies in the presentation. Instead of one long pastry puff, it’s two puffs on top of each other.
Chouquettes: It’s “just” choux pastry topped with sugar cubes. It’s perfect if you want to bring something for breakfast. It’s very simple and delicious!
Flan: The English translation might be “pudding,” but that doesn’t quite capture it, as it’s not like English pudding at all. Many countries have their own versions of flan, and the French flan is known for having a pastry at the bottom. It can be a pâte brisée, sablée, or feuilletée (sorry for the French, but the translations I’ve found don’t seem accurate). The classic flan is vanilla-flavored, but there are many other flavors depending on the baker.
Tartelettes: these are mini tarts, composed of pastry, cream, fruit and fruit coulis. There are also fruit-free tarts, such as chocolate or lemon.
Kouign amann: this is a specialty of the Brittany region. It’s a generous, fatty pastry made with puff pastry, salted butter and caramelized sugar. It’s very tasty and fills the stomach.
maisondesgranges.com
Croissant and pain au chocolat: the most famous, and deservedly so. A safe choice. Perfect for breakfast.
Pain suisse or pepito or drop: it goes by many names, but it’s always good. It’s a brioche dough filled with vanilla custard and chocolate chips.
karine-cuisine.blogspot.com
Chausson au pomme: it can be extraordinary in some bakeries, but very disappointing in others. Very airy and filled with a kind of apple jam.
www.mollyjwilk.com
You can also find cookies, cannelés, madeleines etc… Don’t hesitate to ask the seller if the bakery isn’t very busy. If it is, avoid taking too long, as hungry people are not patient. 🙃
good to know
Many bakeries offer special lunch formulas 🥪. It usually consists of a sandwich, dessert and a drink. Prices vary; but in general it is never over 10€, it’s still very good value compared with nearby restaurants.